Kashmir, presently held by India as its ‘integral part’, if described in any one word, for the sake of ease, would be ‘mesmerising’, what with its green meadows, lakes, Mughal gardens, pleasant climate and a plethora of flora and fauna both. The beautiful narrative that is Kashmir is punctured occasionally by green hues of military fatigues, guns pointing right at you, bunkers making the city centre look ugly and barbed wires blocking your entrance to armed fortresses, and empty wine bottles hanging by their necks on the wires. That’s how we have grown, amidst all that military presence of the Indian state and the lullaby of bullets and ‘encounters’, fake or otherwise putting us to sleep every night for most of our childhoods. That and of course we love Iran. I might be accused of having used the pronoun very broadly but that’s how we have grown, with majority of the people comparing Kashmir with Iran. For most of the people, the similarities are in architecture, language (Kashmiri language has a fair amount of Persian in it), the scenic beauty and in the proximity of the people in appearance. But for a specific 10 per cent of the total population in Kashmir, Iran holds a special place in their hearts.
Kashmir, presently held by India as its ‘integral part’, if described in any one word, for the sake of ease, would be ‘mesmerising’, what with its green meadows, lakes, Mughal gardens, pleasant climate and a plethora of flora and fauna both. The beautiful narrative that is Kashmir is punctured occasionally by green hues of military fatigues, guns pointing right at you, bunkers making the city centre look ugly and barbed wires blocking your entrance to armed fortresses, and empty wine bottles hanging by their necks on the wires. That’s how we have grown, amidst all that military presence of the Indian state and the lullaby of bullets and ‘encounters’, fake or otherwise putting us to sleep every night for most of our childhoods. That and of course we love Iran. I might be accused of having used the pronoun very broadly but that’s how we have grown, with majority of the people comparing Kashmir with Iran. For most of the people, the similarities are in architecture, language (Kashmiri language has a fair amount of Persian in it), the scenic beauty and in the proximity of the people in appearance. But for a specific 10 per cent of the total population in Kashmir, Iran holds a special place in their hearts.
Shias
in Kashmir revere Iran for reasons that are religious; Iran for Kashmiri shias
happens to be the centre of their religious world. I have vivid memories of
knowing Iran before I knew Kashmir. Ironically, I have never been to Iran but I
have been in love with it like any other young Kashmiri shia. I have dreamt of
wearing a ‘chador’ much more than I have worn my pheran (a long, loose cloak
worn in winter) and have spent dark winter nights listening to the stories of
the Islamic Revolution of Iran. Typically, in a Kashmiri shia house it is but
natural to have the Iranian flag pasted, pinned and framed along with a
mandatory picture of the Ayatollahs (Khomenei and Khamenei both). However the
love for Iran sometimes transcends religious reasons and Kashmiris follow the
political stances of the Islamic Republic just as enthusiastically. That might
be the answer to those curious friends who wonder why former Iranian president,
Mahmoud Ahmadenijad should find a place along with Ayatollah Khamenei and
Ayatollah Khomeini.
For most of the Kashmiri shia families, the
muqalid (a religious scholar who is followed for living a life in accordance to
the Islamic values) of their choice is Ayatollah Khamenei as opposed to
Ayatollah Sistani of Iraq, with no disrespect to the latter who is equally
revered. This process of taqleed is almost a legacy, carried on by families and
generations unless a person chooses otherwise. It just goes on to say what
influence Iran exercises over us. The anti United States stance that Iran has
maintained post Islamic Revolution reverberates in Kashmir as well. The slogan
‘Marg bar amreeka, marg bar israel’ (death to U.S and Israel) is almost a given
in the mourning month of Muharram or during protests against the Israeli state
that bombs Gaza every now and then. The Friday congregational prayers are due
to be followed with prayers for the well being of Iran and its Supreme leader.
Talk
to any Kashmiri shia, young or old, the love for Iran seems omnipresent and
obvious barring of course some people who might have different perspectives,
which is always welcome. Kashmiri shias love Iran considering it almost
infallible but well that is a cause of concern, for a state will never be
infallible. To study in Iran or to visit it is a dream come true and a cause of
joy and happiness. The architectural marvel that is Iran, beats in the hearts
of many here in this vale and beyond in the mountains of Ladakh. What will be
the outcome of this love affair and how long will it continue is a question
left to be answered by individuals, entitled to their fair opinions. As they
say in Iran, Khatam shud.
